Saturday 23rd July 2011 Ubirr

How can some people come to Kakadu and say there's nothing here? Today we decided to drive to Ubirr about 40 km from Jabiru. First stop was the  Bowali Visitors' Centre. At the T junction, we came to a quick stop because a dingo was standing in the middle of the road. It was obvious that the dingo (I've named it Ernie) was used to cars going past and stopping for a look because it looked quite arrogant as if we were on its patch.

Another car approached from the opposite direction but Ernie just moved in front of it so that the car had to detour. Then Ernie plonked down in the middle of the road. A few hours later, on our way back to Jabiru, Ernie was still on the road. We spoke to a couple of park rangers at Ubirr who said that there was some discussion about getting rid of Ernie because they were worried about a potential accident. It would be a shame if this happened.

Ernie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Bowali Centre was a great place to find out more about this area and the traditional owners. The displays were well done with a good balance between text and images. 

Entering one part of the exhibit was like being under water in a billabong as a crocodile was suspended from the ceiling and huge metal lily pads 'grew' along side. 

metal lily pads

 A library was part of the complex which was very open, airy and welcoming. The metal signs showing different parts of the complex were really cool too.

At the entrance to the main exhibition was a huge rock that had been originally painted by a traditional owner. It is being touched up by his grandson and it depicts a long-necked tortoise with the 6 seasons around the edge.

 Bill Neidjie (traditional owner) shares many wise words that are displayed both here and at Cooinda. 
"This earth...
I never damage. 
I look after. 
Fire is nothing 
just clean up.
When you burn, 
new grass coming up. 
That means good animal coming soon...
might be goanna, possum, wallaby.
Burn him off ...
new grass coming up, 
new life all over."

We also found out that in Kakadu there are more than 200 species of ants, more than 1000 species of flies, 100 species of reptiles, 64 species of mammals, more than 1/3 of all bird species in Australia and more species continue to be discovered.

Ubirr is an area that is renown for rock paintings that are at least 2000 years old with some possibly 5000 years old. These are the masterpieces! We didn't expect to see so many. There are several galleries with the main one having the most paintings. When these were originally done, the colours must have been so vibrant to have lasted this long.

 I'd been told that there was a bit of a climb so I took along Nanna's trusty walking stick (just in case the knee didn't like it). Just as well the stick came with me because there were some difficult parts. Robert was a great helper with strong arms and a steady balance. 

 I stopped on a lower level while Robert climbed to the top. 

Glad we did this!

While I was waiting for Robert to return from the top, I tried to imagine  what this place would have been like 2000 years ago.  

from the top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 Arnhem Land is in the distance but entry is not allowed unless a special permit is obtained. We drove to Cahill's Crossing which is used to enter Arnhem Land from this part of Kakadu. There are warning signs about crocodile danger and not to enter the water but surprise! surprise! On the causeway stood a man, with his son and daughter, fishing in water up to their knees. The river is the East Alligator (named by someone who thought the crocodiles were alligators - the name stuck even though there are no alligators in the wild in Australia). 

rainbow serpent