Friday 29th July 2011 (last night at Jabiru)

Reflecting on our walk at noon today, I thought of the saying "Only Mad Dogs and Englishmen go out in the noon day sun." That was what we did but we had hats and water. Down the road from Jabiru (heading towards Darwin), there's a billabong with a large viewing area for bird watchers called Mamakula Wetlands. There's also a 3 km loop walk on flat ground so after a few days of inactivity, we thought we'd have a bit of exercise.

It's quite a pretty place with the path following the loop of the billabong that can seen in the distance. Crocodiles are known in this area so it was good planning to put the walking path away from the water. In the wet, this area would be flooded.

We checked out the bird-viewing area that is well-protected but not camouflaged like a hide. Everyone was really quiet so as not to upset any birds that were close by but these 2 old codgers stomped in, talking at the top of their voices. Must have been deaf as well as ignorant.

bee-eater bird (look closely)

The blackened trunks of the pandanas palms really stand out with the bright green fronds on top as they regenerate after a burn-off. Delicate tufts of spear grass poke through the burnt soil - they don't stay delicate for long; as they grow taller, they become quite strong and flexible. They grow metres in a few weeks. No wonder the traditional owners used them for all sorts of things. They would make a good spear handle.

Plenty of bee-eater birds lived in this area as well as the intermediate egret (not the lesser or the great), willy wagtails, diamond doves, magpie geese and others we could hear but not see.

Bob hasn't outgrown the prankster. I was walking ahead when I heard this loud, crashing noise to my right coming from the scrub. He said that he hadn't seen me move that quickly for a long time. It sounded like some animal crunching through the bush and with much of the foliage being dry from burning off, the sound was amplified. He thinks he's funny!!! Not at the time.

As we neared the end of the walk, he decided to draw a line across the dirt track with large footprints on either side. I'm not sure if the next walker would notice it because most of them have cameras and are looking for birds higher than the ground.  

Stopped off to look at South Alligator River which is very muddy in colour. It's tidal and it looked to have dropped by a few metres since this morning. It looked a lot like clay on the banks but as crocs like this area too, I wasn't going to squish around in it.  

Not longer after we returned to the caravan park, Bobby hopped into the pool. I went in yesterday and it was sooooo cold that I'm heading for the shower block - a cold shower isn't as cold as the pool. 

We leave here tomorrow morning and head for Mary River Crossing and should arrive in Darwin on Monday. Jennifer arrives on Friday (2:00 a.m. in the morning) and we're looking forward to seeing her. 

Wednesday 27th July 2011

Big Day Out - drove out to Ranger Uranium Mine just out of Jabiru. Whilst it's still in Kakadu National Park, it is separate from the park but the owners respect the traditional land owners. Proclaimed on a sign outside the entrance to the mining site.

Drivers must stay on the bitumen! 

Ranger Uranium Mine

 The first thing you see as you approach, is a high pile of dirt (a bit like driving out to Wingfield Dump). Further along, there is an enormous, gigantic, humungous pit. It's hard to see how deep it is but it's big. Those huge trucks that you need a ladder to get into the cabin look like Tonka trucks in a sandpit. 

Photos didn't come out very well because the auto focus focussed on the wire fence. 


In the background, the vibrant colours of the escarpments far outshine the dullness of this mine. There are different opinions about the mine in this location of a world heritage area. Some of the traditional owners think it is a good thing because the funding that was received has helped with education and a different lifestyle but others don't like the land being disturbed and destroyed. 

Not far from the mine is the Jabiru Airport. It's very tired-looking and with need of some TLC. There were a few planes on the tarmac - with the  mine and tourist flights, it could be a busy place at times. 

Jabiru Airport

We stopped at the only supermarket in Jabiru to re-stock. The price of fresh fruit and veg would keep people poor!  Mushrooms $15 per kg; tomatoes about the same; lettuces over $5 each and cucumbers about $4. 

 

Tuesday 26th July Jabiru

We're just hanging out in Jabiru for a few days. It's getting warmer up here and a bit of humidity is creeping in. Don't like humidity! It's not supposed to get like this until October.

 

Saturday 23rd July 2011 Ubirr

How can some people come to Kakadu and say there's nothing here? Today we decided to drive to Ubirr about 40 km from Jabiru. First stop was the  Bowali Visitors' Centre. At the T junction, we came to a quick stop because a dingo was standing in the middle of the road. It was obvious that the dingo (I've named it Ernie) was used to cars going past and stopping for a look because it looked quite arrogant as if we were on its patch.

Another car approached from the opposite direction but Ernie just moved in front of it so that the car had to detour. Then Ernie plonked down in the middle of the road. A few hours later, on our way back to Jabiru, Ernie was still on the road. We spoke to a couple of park rangers at Ubirr who said that there was some discussion about getting rid of Ernie because they were worried about a potential accident. It would be a shame if this happened.

Ernie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Bowali Centre was a great place to find out more about this area and the traditional owners. The displays were well done with a good balance between text and images. 

Entering one part of the exhibit was like being under water in a billabong as a crocodile was suspended from the ceiling and huge metal lily pads 'grew' along side. 

metal lily pads

 A library was part of the complex which was very open, airy and welcoming. The metal signs showing different parts of the complex were really cool too.

At the entrance to the main exhibition was a huge rock that had been originally painted by a traditional owner. It is being touched up by his grandson and it depicts a long-necked tortoise with the 6 seasons around the edge.

 Bill Neidjie (traditional owner) shares many wise words that are displayed both here and at Cooinda. 
"This earth...
I never damage. 
I look after. 
Fire is nothing 
just clean up.
When you burn, 
new grass coming up. 
That means good animal coming soon...
might be goanna, possum, wallaby.
Burn him off ...
new grass coming up, 
new life all over."

We also found out that in Kakadu there are more than 200 species of ants, more than 1000 species of flies, 100 species of reptiles, 64 species of mammals, more than 1/3 of all bird species in Australia and more species continue to be discovered.

Ubirr is an area that is renown for rock paintings that are at least 2000 years old with some possibly 5000 years old. These are the masterpieces! We didn't expect to see so many. There are several galleries with the main one having the most paintings. When these were originally done, the colours must have been so vibrant to have lasted this long.

 I'd been told that there was a bit of a climb so I took along Nanna's trusty walking stick (just in case the knee didn't like it). Just as well the stick came with me because there were some difficult parts. Robert was a great helper with strong arms and a steady balance. 

 I stopped on a lower level while Robert climbed to the top. 

Glad we did this!

While I was waiting for Robert to return from the top, I tried to imagine  what this place would have been like 2000 years ago.  

from the top

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 Arnhem Land is in the distance but entry is not allowed unless a special permit is obtained. We drove to Cahill's Crossing which is used to enter Arnhem Land from this part of Kakadu. There are warning signs about crocodile danger and not to enter the water but surprise! surprise! On the causeway stood a man, with his son and daughter, fishing in water up to their knees. The river is the East Alligator (named by someone who thought the crocodiles were alligators - the name stuck even though there are no alligators in the wild in Australia). 

rainbow serpent

 

Thursday 21st July 2011 Animal Tracks Safari

We had one of the best days and we're so glad that we made the decision to go on Animal Tracks Safari. Left at 1:00 p.m. and returned at 8:40 p.m. The coaster bus has no windows and allows passengers to experience the weather and the other parts of nature that we sometimes forget when we're driving around in air-conditioned cars.

picture paints a thousand words

Sean (white fella from Cairns who is so respectful of indigenous people and is passionate about their lore and country) was our driver and guide. We collected Patsy (a traditional owner and bull farm owner with her husband) who was also our guide and teacher. 


The safari aims to inform passengers about country, lore, the past, the present and what may be the future for Kakadu if climate change continues to go unchecked. Kakadu may be one of the first places to be lost. Patsy and Sean also teach us about finding bush tucker and how to cook it. 

Listening to Sean explain the connection that indigenous people have for the land and connecting white fellas culture to this ancient culture is interesting, informative and relevant. He told us about the wild buffalo and the impact they have had on the land because Australia had no animals with cloven feet until Europeans brought them over here. 

damage from buffalo and wild pigs

When the government at the time decided to cull the wild buffaloes, some of the indigenous people weren't too pleased because they had become used to hunting and eating these animals. A buffalo farm was established without financial support from the government; money from mining companies that had paid for exploration and establishment of mines in some places of Kakadu, was used. Many buffalo were killed but some were farmed. Fences had to be built to keep buffalo confined. 

The cane toad has also had an enormous impact on so many of the animals that used to live in this area e.g. water goannas are not found very often if at all. Sean is quite cynical about the eradication of cane toads because it seems to be in the too hard basket for governments.

 Sean's commentary and Patsy's stories made dotted our bus trip as we travelled along narrow tracks through some stunning scenery. 

On one side of the bus would be tall trees with tall grasses  (unless there had been a burn off) and other the opposite side were kilometres of tall green grasses that spread over the flood plain. It's hard to imagine this area being inundated by water in the wet. There's still water here but Sean told us that it was drying up fast and in a few weeks there wouldn't be much lying around. 

In a couple of weeks time, there will be millions of bird life here. We're thinking that we may stop here on the way back from Darwin to see what it looks like. 

Finding paper bark was one of the tasks that Patsy had so we wandered through the trees until she found one that would be OK. After she'd used a long sharp tool to break the bark, a couple of passengers did what she told them and peeled back the bark in one long piece. This was to be used for cooking our tea.

Patsy finding paper bark

Next stop was to look for seed pods of water lilies. With the water levels decreasing daily, this wasn't as successful as Patsy had hoped and she didn't want to go into the bigger billabong because there were a few crocs there. She was almost taken by a croc not long ago but she also caught 2 recently. 
There was enough of the seed pods for all of  us to have a taste. 

Mussel searching was next with everyone given a metal poking rod. We followed Patsy down a dry creek bed and watched as she looked for tiny holes where mussels would have dug in when the water level was higher. Once the hole has been found, then light poking is the next step and you have to listen for the rod to tap against the shell of the mussel. Some of the kids really got into this with one young lad, taking off his shoes and socks so that he could gt up and close and personal in the water. He found heaps. Bobby was pretty pleased with his efforts because her found them without Patsy's help.

Bobby mussel hunting

Back on the bus, Sean told us more about the land, the flora and fauna and how important the connection with the land is for indigenous people. He's been given a skin name by the local people. The kinship system sounds complicated but Sean simplified it for us and it made sense. Patsy told us that Sean's son was also given a skin name.

You can check out more looking at this web site: http://www.aboriginalculture.com.au/socialorganisation.shtml

Further along the track, we stopped again to look for water chestnuts. Sean gave us all a heavy metal mallet (a bit like a mini sledge hammer) and this was used to hit the rock hard clay to find this tiny pea-like food. Every time the hammer hit the clay and got through the thick crust, a swarm of mossies would fly out and attack. Nice work if you can get it!!!

Hunting and gathering is bloody hard work! It's not like going to a supermarket and finding everything in one shop. They had to walk kilometres to find one type of food then more to find another. No wonder they were so fit. 

hunting for water chestnuts

The role the grandparents played was integral to their way of living. While the men were out hunting and the women gathering, the grandparents would look after the children and tell them stories about their culture, the skills needed to live and to follow rules. 

Sean compared this with what our grandparents can teach us. With the world changing so fast in western society, most grandparents are unable to teach the young people about how to use technology. Sean believes that television has had a significant impact on indigenous people's lives.

I agree to a point but there are many grandparents who look after their grandchildren in our society now because both parents work or there are single parent families. Sometimes, the kids see more of their grandparents than their parents. Both societies are very different and the traditional indigenous ones are changing as well because many young people don't want to know about the stories, songs or dances nor do they want to learn the skills of hunting and gathering. I spoke with Patsy for a while about this and we both agreed that it was very sad as the stories and skills will be lost. 

fire pit for cooking

view from bush camp over flood plain

 The culmination of the safari was to eat dinner at sunset using the food gathered along the way. When we picked up Patsy, she had a magpie goose and a barramundi that had been caught that morning. 

looking for seed pods

Everyone could help with the food preparation but I wasn't keen on plucking the goose. Once plucked, the goose was placed on top of wet gum leaves that were put on hot stones (we'd placed them on top of firewood then lit the fire).
The barramundi was next followed by pig, buffalo and vegetables (sweet potato and potato from the supermarket). All of this was covered with the paper bark then dirt was piled on top. Sean had boiled up billy tea and made damper that we had hot with golden syrup - yummy.

The mussels were cooked in a billy can and the food didn't take long to cook. 

I'm not an adventurous meat eater so I had a bit of barra, veggies and damper. Bobby tried most of the food  and he thought it was pretty good. 



 While the food was cooking, Patsy showed some of us how to split the pandanas grass to begin the weaving process. Hard work again - it's not as easy as she made it look. I did a bit of weaving a couple of years ago and I really enjoyed it - might be inspired when I get home. Patsy weaves and paints as well and these art/crafts are sold. She showed us some of her work and she's a very clever woman. 

Patsy showing how to split pandanas for weaving

When we first arrived at the bush camp, toilets were set up. I thought it wise to use the facilities but nearly fell down the hole because my knees don't like to bend as much as they should and the toilet was very low to the ground. 


Another awesome sunset with birds flying in to the reeds and nearby trees to roost for the night. Sean had placed piles of hot coals topped with bull dung which was a mossie repellant. 


As soon as everything was stowed away, we boarded the bus to head back to Patsy's then to Cooinda. This was a really amazing experience and we would recommend it to anyone. There's a lot to learn and enjoy.

Sean with damper

Tuesday 19th July 2011 Cooinda (Sunrise Cruise)

Bobby was up at 5:30 a.m. and I wasn’t too far behind at 5:45 a.m. The sunrise cruise proved to be a popular one as well with 250 people doing it this morning. Five vessels operate from the mooring and all of them were used. It was pre-dawn when we arrived and very different from 12 hours ago.

dawn on billabong

The mossies were up to and we could hear people slapping arms, legs, necks and wherever else these attacking blood-sucking biters were invading. I gave Bob a slap or two but there weren’t any mossies on him (he didn’t know that).

We had the same guide as last night so we knew that we’d hear most of the same information but that didn’t matter. For a while, we travelled in a different part of the river where tall trees lined the edge. 

The mangroves up here are very different to the ones in the Port River; they don’t have the above water roots and that’s because they live in salt water. Robert did provide a scientific explanation because he studied this plant life at uni. 

sunrise 

Paperbarks are another tree that grow profusely here and they have so many uses e.g. to wrap food to keep flies and other insects from getting at it, to cover food and keep it warm while it’s cooking on coals that have been covered in sand or other soil.

As dawn approached, bird songs called be heard from different . Soon there were lines of magpie geese honking as they flew across the water with ducks, egrets, ibises and other bird life joining them. Two sea eagles were perched on a branch and we saw so many different types of birds that I can’t remember what they were called.  We did see a kingfisher and a night heron. With so many insects flittering about, the flycatcher birds were having a feast.

ducks and magpie goose

Our guide spotted about 20 wild, black pigs walking away from the river towards the tall buffalo grass and she hurried to get to them before they disappeared. They were too quick although we did see them in the distance for a short time. The pigs are culled but the traditional owners still use the park for hunting so not all are culled; the same goes for the water buffalo that were introduced from islands to the north of Australia. For the original owners, this land was like a living supermarket except they didn’t hunt to excess or extinction. They only took as much as they needed and left the rest so that there would be more later when needed.

seasons (this was at entrance to cultural centre)

The 6 seasons that are used by the Binbinj are all connected to the weather that indicates when certain plants are flowering or in fruit and when different birds and animals lay eggs. It’s more complicated than this but it makes sense. There are so many things can learn from these amazing environmentalists.  I thought I knew a lot about indigenous culture but I’m glad to have learnt so much more.

sleeping Bobby

The cloud cover hid the sun as it climbed over the horizon so it was not a spectacular sight although the changing colours were noticeable. It certainly was as dramatic as sunset. The river was like glass with not a ripple and the reflections were perfect. As the morning grew lighter, the lilies began to open. The huge leaves of the pink lilies turned to face the sun and follow it through the day to catch as much light as possible.

Plenty of fish were jumping out of the water but most of the crocodiles remained under water where it was still warmer than the air temperature.  When they sit on the banks all day, it’s because they have spent the night hunting so they’re resting and getting ready to hunt again. We did see a couple with some of their scoops (the bumpy bits on their backs) just showing above the surface and another one sitting on the bank.

Someone asked about the yellow ribbons that were tied to a few trees along the way. These ribbons indicate where a crocodile slide has been found by rangers and from this slide information can be gathered about the croc (weight, size). Our guide told us it was difficult to tell the sex of a croc although if someone wanted to volunteer, she would supply a plastic glove which was to feel between a crocs rear legs to locate a pouch. No volunteers for that one! The other way was to use size as females don’t grow as big as the males. This is difficult when juvenile crocs aren’t fully grown.

Not long before the cruise was to end, someone spotted a very large croc swimming in the water. Another vessel was nearby so we backed off because it’s not a good idea to block the path of a croc. Once the other vessel left, we glided closer. It was huge! We watched it for a while but as it moved closer, our guide didn’t want to upset it so we left. Apparently, if they get upset, they can attack the boat. Define “upset” for a crocodile. 

There are no jumping crocs here because they are not allowed to be fed by people; unlike those in the Adelaide River that put on a regular show when teased with the prospect of an easy catch (some fresh meat – don’t know what) is suspended over the water and the crocscroc of enormous proportions leaping right alongside a cruise vessel. Some people thought it was a photoshopped image but it was the real thing.

The cruise was over and we headed off in the bus for breakfast (part of the package). We were expecting fairly basic food, maybe toast and cornflakes. What a surprise! Scrambled eggs, bacon, sausages, baked beans all hot. Delish banana muffins, toast, bread, jams, croissants, fresh fruit, yogurt, cereals, juices and tea or coffee were waiting for us and the other 248 early morning risers.  Robert was so full after and I really shouldn’t have had another muffin.

breakfast eatery

With his coffee, he returned with his pockets containing an orange, kiwi fruit and yogurt. You can take the boy out of Ethelton but you can’t take Ethelton out of the boy! Apparently, I started the collection when I brought back a muffin for him that he didn’t want so it went into the drink bottle bag. It’s always me!!!!! This is for Jennifer – there were no ‘free’ post cards!

Several years ago, we did a few wineries down at McLaren Vale. At one winery (I think it might have been Chapel Hill), there was a selection of postcards on the counter and they weren’t the typical location postcard. I picked out 5 and put them in my bag. There was no sign showing price and I thought they were free.  Jennifer told me off when we got in the car; apparently they were $1 each. Luckily, we did buy a bit of wine! Klepto Shaz – look out!

A nap was in order when we’d finished but I shouldn’t have gone to sleep. I haven’t had a hangover in years – you don’t get them when you don’t drink – but I felt like that when I woke up.  No lunch today – don’t know why.

A short distance down the road is an interpretative centre called Warradjan (Warr-ar-jarn) Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Its shape represents a warradjan (pig-nosed turtle). This is such an informative place and developed by Bininj/Mungguy. Photos are not allowed in the centre.

cultural centre

There’s so much to learn from this place and it makes me wonder why the opportunity wasn’t taken up by the Port Adelaide Enfield Council and the land developers when Newport Quays was in the planning stages. The garden area is lovely but it’s a token to the traditional people who lived there for thousands of years. Respect develops when people can learn from each other and listen to other people’s stories. Opportunity lost!

I hope this special place doesn’t change, especially with mining not so far away in Jabiru.

Bobby’s in the pool but there’s very little shade and I’m not keen in being in the sun at this time of day.

On a  walk around the park before tea, we discovered the original departure point for cruises on the river. There's a causeway leading to a ramp then onto a pontoon. There was a woman sitting on the ramp enjoying the serenity of the billabong until we came along so after a quick chat, we left her in peace. 

We were looking for the boardwalk but that will have to wait until tomorrow. This park has so many sites to cater for a diverse group of people; powered, unpowered, group camping (school groups), motel, permanent tent-like accommodation. 

Monday 18th July 2011 Mary River Caravan Park to Cooinda (Yellow Water Region) in Kakadu

The local Aboriginal name for Yellow Water is Ngurrungurrudjba (Noor-roong-oo-rooj- bar). Excellent day – well another excellent day because we finally reached Kakadu National Park! 

Our site is very shady and not too far from the amenities (a handy thing when you get older). My hair was overdue for a colour so this was going to be the day. I have the best hairdresser because she gave me the recipe for my hair colour with precise instructions to follow. 

 Under the awning seemed to be the best place and that way I wouldn’t make a mess in the van. I forgot to bring a brush to apply the concoction so an old toothbrush was the next best thing but after a while I resorted to hands. I got a couple of funny looks from some of the staff and one older Aboriginal woman gave me a smile and a wave as she went about her work. Bobby helped me to rinse it with a couple of buckets and it was done!

Hair done we set off to the main centre to book some of the tours and buy some milk. Some $600 later we’d booked a sunset cruise, a sunrise cruise and an animal tracks safari.

The sunset cruise on Yellow Water was very special. Yellow Water is part of the South Alligator River floodplain. This billabong in Kakadu is almost the same as it’s been for thousands and thousands of years. No white fellas stuffing it up except for some weed that grows in the water but is flushed out to sea in the wet where it dies and wild pigs. The pigs do massive damage to the soil and we saw the results of their work.

Our guides (and bus drivers and cruise operators) were excellent – we learnt so much about the plants, animals and culture of the local indigenous people, Bininj. Many different birds live here (about 1/3 of Australia’s bird species can be found here) and migratory birds from Russia, China and Japan also fly here at different times of the year.  

jabiru (my camera isn't flash but I'm pleased with photo)

We saw a pair of jabiru sitting on their nest which was about 1.5 metres across and 1 metre deep – a significant structure but then again, they are big birds. They mate for life unlike the “Jesus” birds or jakuna  (look like they’re walking on water except they are walking on lily pads and their long toes support them as they hunt for insects). The male looks after the eggs and chicks once they hatch whilst the female does the deed, lays the eggs and looks for another male to repeat the cycle. She does this about 5 times a year.

It wasn’t long before we began to spot crocodiles basking on the banks of the river. These salties are so much more dangerous looking than the freshwater ones. Most of the ones we saw were big with one being about 4 metres long. 

Skinny-necked ducks with quite pretty feathers seem to flourish in this billabong. They don’t quack but they do whistle. There were plenty of them along the banks especially as the sun was setting. Herons abound here as well along with the willy-wagtails, sea eagle and whistling kites.  There were plenty of other species but I don’t remember all of their names.

The cruise is very leisurely and takes a couple of hours. The boat is able to get very close to crocodiles that don’t seem to bother too much about it. Some do submerge and resurface but others just slowly sink under the water where they can sit for 2 hours.

We were told how the traditional owners hunted for fish. The men would mash up the fruit of the pandanas (which is not good for humans to eat) and they would spread the mashed fruit and seeds on top of the water. 

pandanas

Fish like this food so as they came to the surface to eat, the men would catch them. The women also had a job. They would wade waist-deep in the water and feel about the bed of the river with their feet. When they felt something scaly, they would bend down and catch a snake.  To kill the snake, the head of it would be placed in the woman’s mouth where she would bite down and this would break the spine of the snake.

There are so many lilies on this billabong. A very large pad grows in the waters and the surface has many tiny little hairs that can hold water or repel it. In summer and winter, the pad is used as a hat to protect the wearer and it is also used to carry water.

After a couple of hours on this special place, the sun begins to set and there’s another very  unique experience watching the sun go down as it lights the sky with different shades and hues of orange, pink, purple and grey. Magic!

Boh boh (bor bor) means goodbye here – not farewell but a bit like see you later.

Really looking forward to the sunrise cruise tomorrow. Up early to be at the bus stop by 6:20 a.m. Bobby’s already asleep (8:56 p.m.).

Sunday July 17th 2011 Mary River and surrounds

female toilets Mary River CP

In the laundry found one dead cane toad flat out like a lizard (or in this case a toad).  They are definitely not as appealing to the eye as green tree frogs. There’s another creature that hangs out in the amenities block; a lizard of some sort – it’s a sandstone colour and about the size of a gecko. 

male toilets Mary River CP

Crows up here don’t sound sad and forlorn and ready to commit suicide as the ones at home. Instead of the extended faaaark, faaaark cry, NT crows are more uplifting with a haaa haaa call.

Our intention was to check out the sights before it got too hot today. We turned off the main road and headed down a dirt track. The road needed grading badly as it was very corrugated and like a washboard. I don’t know how long some of the caravans and cars last when they travel along roads like this. We have some respect for the car and van so we did a u-turn and headed back to the bitumen. Some people may think we’re being over-cautious but out here if something goes wrong, it’s a huge inconvenience with recovery of the vehicle and then waiting for parts and repairs. We’ve heard a few horror stories from other travellers.

corrugated road

Cooinda is the next main settlement. We’d heard positive things about the park so we checked it out and booked in for 3 nights. From here we can do a sunset cruise and morning cruise on the Yellow River. I’ve been looking forward to this for a while.

Looking around the complex, we found the main eatery. The prices of some of the meals could almost pay for a site for a night. At the cheaper end was a beef burger at $28. I’m happy with Holmsey’s meals.

There are some big rivers up here and we crossed a couple that were flowing quite fast on the way to and from Cooinda, which is about 105 km from Mary River. At one of the camp grounds, there were plenty of campers and an area was allocated to use generators between 9:00 a.m. and 9:00 p.m. as there were no powered sites but toilets and hot showers were available. I’m being a bit of a sook and I want power.  We’ve had the air conditioner working again today. It’s hot and if we open up the windows and door, we’re invaded by biting things.

Most of the trees are very straight with thin trunks. The winds mustn’t be very strong. Cathedral termite mounds are a feature amongst the savannah vegetation. Some of them are colossal (that might be an exaggeration). Check out the photo to see one. One wonders how long it took to build and how many termites are living in it.

cathedral termite mound (and Bob)

Made phone calls to Mum and Dad, Trev and Lynda, Jennifer (no answer) and finally touched base with The Gaylards. It’s always good to speak with family and friends and catch up with what’s happening at home.

As we were looking through some of the brochures, etc later this afternoon, Robert queried one that had Mary River Crossing. This is the one that I had used to book this CP – wrong place. So I have to take back what I wrote yesterday about the brochure being more attractive than the real place. Big OOPS! If we had phone connection, I’d have called the other place and apologised because I used the info on the brochure to book a site. Bobby didn’t tell me that when he checked in, our name wasn’t on the list – now we know why. This must happen a bit – Mary River and Mary River Crossing.

Without internet access or television reception, Bobby’s finally doing some crosswords!!!! I love my crosswords and must have a daily fix. Now, instead of being asked, “What can’t you work out?” we can help each other solve the clues that are posing a block. I don’t think he’ll take up making jewellery though.