September 14th Wednesday 2011 to Glen Helen (Good luck John)

Gorges seem to be around almost every bend in the road up here and no wonder with all the evidence in the geography of this region. Simpsons Gap was the first stop today as we headed to West Macdonnell Ranges.  This short 10 minute walk into the area was on a good path (I wish they were all as easy as that one). Neither of us expected to find water here so it was a pleasant surprise when we started to see glimpses of puddles and small ponds which led to quite a long expanse of fresh water. Simpsons Gap was located at the end of the large pond. The reflections in the water of the large rocks and trees were lovely. It was a very peaceful space and very cool.

Simpsons Gap

Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye) was next on the list. We’d heard that an hour either side of noon was the best time to be in the chasm as the sun (being directly overhead) lit up the different colours of the rocks. The walk in wasn’t as easy as Simpsons Gap even though it was only about 20 mins into the area. Rock wallabies frequent this area but not when people are present and it’s definitely rock wallaby terrain! Even the ice packs didn’t make the swelling of my knee go down but it was worth it.

Standley Chasm ( Angkerle Atwatye)

The sides of the chasm rise 80 metres from the relatively narrow, sandy floor to the sky. Some of the rocky walls are smooth where water has gradually worn down the rugged edges; other sections of the walls are jagged and irregular; seeds from plants (including flowers and trees) have lodged in the crevices and amazingly they have survived and grown clinging to the sides of the chasm.

The colours of the walls go from rich orange ochres to rusty browns and other shades in between. A small pond with an abundance of some water beasties, is at one end of the chasm. The water is crystal clear and cold. Some of this pond would rarely feel the touch of the sun.  This space would be spectacular when it rains.

Waiting for the sun to be directly overhead seemed to take longer than 30 mins and people were checking watches, looking at the shadows and the sun in anticipation of something spectacular. The colours were stunning as the shadows changed and the sun moved slowly over the chasm. I must admit that it wasn’t a sudden blinding light moment that I was expecting – many people on our travels had told us that the chasm lights up and my interpretation was a stunning, awesome light fills the space.  From the guide book: This narrow cleft in the ranges is best seen in the midday sun, when the walls of the chasm blaze a fiery red from the overhead Sun’s reflection.”

Being gorged and chasmed out for the day, we headed for Glen Helen Resort. First impressions: dusty, not many trees, another “resort”. After a couple of hours: not too bad with an escarpment facing our site, the Finke River behind the original homestead that is now a pub, reception area, shop, dining area and motel. Robert enjoyed the beer - best beer in best pub for a long while.

We sat on the verandah of the pub watching the sun set while we checked out the bird life in the Finke River. Robert plans to have a swim in it tomorrow – it felt pretty cold to me. Just around the corner from this area is another gorge that we’ll explore tomorrow as well as Oriston Gorge.